Backup Safety Grab Loop for Kayak Spraydecks

When I started whitewater kayaking 30 years ago we all paddled composite, mostly fiberglass boats. The cockpit rim had the same hard edge lip we have on composite seakayaks today. We also made our own spraydecks either of nylon or neoprene, but eventually everyone went to neoprene. Neoprene skirts had a better fit and when tensioned correctly they shed water without imploding. Because we rolled the neoprene over shock cord and then glued it, there was a thick edging all around the rim. (Except in the back where the shock cord came out and we knotted it for enough tension to keep the skirt on.) Because of the size of the rolled up neoprene, the deck easily rolled off the rim when pulled during a wet exit. Eventually the fiberglass boats were taken over by plastic designs, but the same decks did not stay on as well. Plastic kayaks have a softer edge to the rim. It's inherent in the molding process. Because composite boats have a separate rim that is glassed in, there is a much sharper edging. So spraydecks evolved to fit the more popular plastic kayaks while composite boats remained pretty much the same as far as the cockpit rim. Therefore, there is the potential for a tighter fit over the composite rim which requires more force to remove.

Composite

Plastic Molded

 To properly remove a modern deck from the composite rim the paddler may need to pull forward before pulling straight up or back. On a plastic boat this is not an issue due to the rounded nature of the edge and relative shorter pull.
One solution would be to cut down the edge of the composite cockpit rim. However this could damage the fitting into the cockpit as they are separate and glued together (although on higher quality boats they are glassed together.) Most, if anyone, would never go to this length, it's just not an issue.

Until last year.

A good friend of mine was paddling his composite seakayak with a sewn shock-cord neoprene deck. He attempted a wet exit and was unable to release the deck. Could be he was already tired, could be many factors, but he insists he would have drowned if someone was not there to help him back up.  He has since sworn off neoprene decks and only uses nylon skirts. However I think that nylon skirts that have not been properly adjusted could pose the same threat of non-release if the shock cord is tied too tight. In fact I experienced it 30 years ago as a novice with a fiberglass whitewater kayak. It is a harsh lesson. Fortunately I was able to kick my way out through the waist tunnel.

Pyranha Mouldings developed a fall back release system on their Micro series creek boats. These were plastic whitewater kayaks with a piece of webbing attached under the front deck that was looped out and under the spraydeck when it was sealed. The rationale was that in the event of a grab loop failure on the spraydeck there was a back up device to release the spraydeck.
I modified a composite seakayak to see if by looping a piece of webbing under a tight fitting neoprene deck if it would create an angle conducive to rolling the shock cord off the rim without first pulling forward and then up. I used a Seals 1.2 skirt on a Nelo SeaKayak. It worked great on dry land and I will test it further once the water warms up.  It's a simple process to install the webbing.

This IS NOT a panacea for safely removing a spraydeck. Especially a mis-adjusted or improperly fitted skirt. It IS NOT a substitute for good judgment, practice with a coach and situational awareness. I consider it a back up to the existing grab loop on the spraydeck. 

Mark with a Punch

Drill a pilot hole

Drill the screw hole just big enough that the screw self taps through the deck. You can add a little aquaseal if the hole is too big to prevent leakage.

I used a screw with a large head. You may need to add a washer. There is a washer and locking nut on the inside securing the webbing.

Punching a hole in the webbing. Then use a pair of needle nose pliers to open it up. I melted the threads so they would not wear or tear.

Pulling straight up, it peels right off.

Just a loop. Be careful to never get the webbing under a deck line!

I added some static cord and secured it with two zip ties and covered with tape.

 Corrosion, wear, loosening hard wear could all lead to failure. Check your equipment before setting out and make sure BOTH the grab loop and back up release are outside the cockpit before sealing the edges!

3/25/2011 10:39 EST

This IS NOT a panacea for safely removing a spraydeck. Especially a mis-adjusted or improperly fitted skirt. It IS NOT a substitute for good judgment, practice with a coach and situational awareness. I consider it a back up to the existing grab loop on the spraydeck.  

Having gimmicks on spraydecks that increase the risk of snags, pushing out with the knees, or removing the side of the skirt first does not solve the problem with the boat. It's not always possible to push out with the knees as the material may stretch. It may not be possible to grab the sides of the skirts if you're wearing gloves. Altering the design of the skirt does not fix the boat. Boat builders should design and produce composite boats with safer cockpit rims.   For shorter people the problem is compounded by keyhole cockpits. The longer reach encourages a straight pull back of the spraydeck grab loop.

Practice is essential to prevent panic which can lead to failure of removing the deck. Even an experienced paddler is at risk for panic and making mistakes when performing under duress.  There are enough anecdotal stories to support at the very least a discussion and review of the basic kayak skill, the wet exit.  

Thank you for reading and the positive thoughtful comments. 

Safe Boating!